Sunday Weaving Guidance: How to work out your EPI when weaving

On a Sunday i have decided to help out with some weaving guidance. I hope to post most Sundays.


I best start off right at the beginning. I am going to work through setting up a loom and today i am going to be blogging about

EPI or ENDS PER INCH 

or HOW MANY THREADS PER INCH YOU WILL BE WEAVING 

Before you start weaving you must make a warp, BUT before you do this you need to work out your EPI (Ends per inch). Doing this you will get the correct width of cloth you desire and help to get the perfect sett. 

1. Wrap your chosen yarn around an inch on a ruler (see above). Loosely so that the yarn is just touching itsself

2. Count how many times the yarn has wrapped around the ruler.

3. This is your EPI your fabric will be sett at 

This EPI is a rough guide for what type of sett in the fabric you would like, it can change due to yarn, structure and the desired drape of your cloth . 

Normally twills have a higher EPI in comparison to a plain weave structure. If you would like a fabric that has more drape lower the EPI, if you would like a denser fabric heighten the EPI 

Sunday Weaving Guidance: What thread to use in a warp

When deciding what yarn to use in your thread you must check its strength. 

To do this:

1. take a length (about a foot) of yarn between both hands.


2. Pull on the yarn till it snaps. If it seems to break easily it wont be suitable for a warp as it will start to snap when weaving.






Yarns that are smooth and untextured also work well in a warp. When yarns are textured they tend to snag, knot and snap more than a what a smooth yarn would. 


Any yarn can be used in the weft. 

A Day In Photos

Weaving

 Making some Products 

                                

Yarn Choices

Make a Warp

How Long Does It Take To Weave That?

I often get asked this question and I never had a definitive answer. I have timed myself and here is a rough  time scale. I will take you through the steps i take to make cloth. 

Making a Warp: 1 Hour 30 Mins 

Winding on the Warp: 1 Hour

Threading: 2 Hours

Reeding: 1 Hour

Tying on the Warp: 30 Mins 

Total Set Up Time Is 6 HOURS

NOW I COULD START WEAVING

When weaving i can weave 20 inches per hour

Sunday Weaving Guidance: The Main Different Types Of Looms

On a Sunday i have decided to help out with some weaving guidance. I hope to post most Sundays.


I best start off right at the beginning.



When deciding to learn to weave it is hard to decide what loom to weave on. I am writing a blog today to help look at the main types of loom and the experience of some looms i have tried.

Ridge Heddle Loom

This is a frame loom that only has one reed come shaft, were you thread the warp alternately. You can only create Plain Weave Structures. Heddles need to be manipulated separately. 

Table Loom  - (I have used one)

Table looms are great if you only have a small space to weave in as they can be placed on a table top or work bench. These looms are great to transport also if you wish to demonstrate your skills. I sometimes take mine to craft fair with me for added impact.  

You can get table looms with many shafts, most have 4 shafts but can also have 8 or 16. The difference between this loom and other is that it is totally hand operated. Leavers let the weaver operates the shafts on the loom, these can be at the side or in front of the loom.  This looms have a front and back beam with a ratchet to keep the tension on the cloth. A Table Loom also has a beater that is either overhung, underslung or sliding - mine is Underslung. 

Overhung - Attached to the top of the loom

Underslung - moves from the bottom of the loom

Sliding - works like a draw opening and closing

Tapestry Loom

These are 

1. a simple frame with nails at top and bottom that hold the warp in place 

2. sophisticated frame for multiple warp threads with two rods to alternate warp threads. You can also move your warp and fabric round the Tapestry frame

When weaving on a Tapestry Loom you don't have to work continually across the cloth, you can select areas in the warp were you would like to weave

Floor Loom - (I have used one)

Floor Looms come in a variety of styles 

1. Counterbalance - I have used one 

2. Countermarch

3. Jack 

4. Dobby - I have used one 

Counterbalance Floor Loom 

These looms normally have 4 shaft but can sometimes have 8. Each shaft is attached to a roller pulley system. These pulleys are attached to 6 treddles at the bottom of the loom. When depress a treddle it move the pulleys and moving the shafts they are tied to. This means you can move more than one shaft at a time with your feet. 

Counterbalance Floor Loom

This loom  can be used on any number of shafts as each treadle is attached to every shaft.  I dont realy have much experience of this type of loom. 

Dobby Floor Loom

They usually have 12 or more shafts, and have a dobby box attached to the side of the loom in place of treadles and tie-up.  The action is similar to a table loom, and the dobby box, either mechanical or computer-driven, selects the shafts pre-programmed into the system.  The mechanical system works on pegs and lags, where lags are small bars with holes in according to the total number of shafts on your loom.  Pegs are inserted into the holes of a lag to denote which shafts you want raised for that particular pick.  Each lag denotes one passage of a weft.